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Village Craftsmen
170
Howard Street
PO Box
248
Ocracoke Island,
NC 27960
252-928-5541
info@villagecraftsmen.com
Ocracoke Newsletter
February 21, 2011
1911
Wedding on Portsmouth island
Following
is
an account of a wedding that took place on Portsmouth Island nearly one
hundred years ago. It is entitled "A Beautiful Church
Wedding on Portsmouth Island, Fifty-Seven
Years Ago" and was written by M. Mason Daniels in1968. In
addition
to the story of the wedding, the bride shares many fascinating memories
of life on this now abandoned island at the turn of the twentieth
century.
"The
once busy, but now almost
deserted town of Portsmouth,
on the south side
of Ocracoke Inlet was recently visited by a native, now a resident of Washington,
D.C. She had been absent from
her childhood home
for nearly fifty years. With
her were a
son-in-law and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Charles Dondero, also of Washington. The mother tried to
recapture for her elder
daughter, Rosalie, some of the highlights of her youth at Portsmouth,
especially her wedding in the
little Methodist church.
Portsmouth Village as seen
from the Tower of the Life Saving Station:

(Click on photo to view a larger image.)
"Ada
Roberts, daughter of James
Roberts and Mrs. Susan J. Gilgo Roberts, of Portsmouth,
N.C.,
was married to W. Harvey Styron, of Davis, N.C.,
on October 12, 1911, at eight o’clock in the evening. The ceremony was performed
by the Rev. E. A.
Paul, Baptist minister of Davis, N.C.,
who was the bridegroom’s
pastor. He was
assisted by the Rev. R.
E. Pittman, Portsmouth Methodist minister.
Mr. Styron had been teaching in the Portsmouth
school and Ada
had been one of his students.
Portsmouth
Schoolhouse:

(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"These were facts already known to
Rosalie. But to
reach the site of the
long-ago wedding, and there hear her mother’s description of
it, took quite a
bit of doing for the entire party.
Portsmouth
embraced two
neighborhoods: Down-the-Banks, on the north end by the inlet, and
Up-the-Banks,
two miles south. Ada’s
home had stood in the sheltered cove
about mid-way between the two.
"For this particular visit, Ben
Salter, host at a hunting lodge Up-the-Banks, and a former Portsmouth
son, took
his guests in a small motor boat and let them study the shore line,
while Ada
pointed out familiar landmarks. Tiny
inlets, resulting from recent hurricanes, had criss-crossed the middle
of what
had once been Portsmouth and discouraged any thought Ben might have had
of
driving a jeep to Ada’s old homeplace.
Formidable undergrowth also barred all passage
and swallowed up the
ruins of the house. The
boat could not
get very close in because of shallow water.
Only two tall, old cedars, that had once
shaded a smooth, fenced in lawn
and croquet court, told this 'sad historian of the pensive plain' where
the
exact spot was.
"Finally, they tied up at the late
Mr. Jody Styron’s landing Down-the-Banks and trekked to
familiar places. This
end of the island is a large area of
flat, lagoon-laced, green-carpeted turf, a good distance from the sea. Further south, the banks
narrow to only a few
hundred yards in width.
"Their first stop was at the Methodist
Church
that has been without a pastor
since 1945. They
borrowed the organ key
from a next-door neighbor. There
are
only three residents left, two white women who are sisters, and one
Negro man,
Henry Pigott. The
returned natives were
welcomed, and soon an impromptu religious service was in progress.
Portsmouth
Methodist Church:
(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"With Mrs. Ada Roberts Styron and
the Dondero’s, were Ada’s
sister, Mrs. Verona R. Oglesby of Morehead City, and a cousin, Leida
Mae
Willis, and her father, Milan Willis of Atlantic.
Like hundreds of others, they had fled the
tides which had usurped their lands, and dispossessed them. After an unhurried ringing
of the old church
bell, that had so often called them to a well attended weekly Sunday
School,
and a monthly sermon by the circuit preacher, the nine of them went
inside. Verona
played the organ and they
all sang, “Blest be the Tie that Binds”,
“Rock of Ages”, “My Faith Looks up to
Thee”, and other hymns.
Ben, a devout
member of the Atlantic Primitive Baptist Church,
read from the
pulpit bible. There
were moments when
the group just sat, too overcome with nostalgia to go on talking. Eyes were misty and lumps
in the throats had
to be swallowed. Ada
took Rosalie to the altar and stood again
on the very spot where the wedding ceremony took place, on that warm
October
evening. Others,
tip-toed over and
hovered near to hear the reminiscing.
Only one of them, Henry Pigott, had actually
witnessed the wedding.
Henry
Pigott's House:
(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"The 1911 bride, who has been a
widow since her husband died in 1957, told this writer the following
story:
"'I stood on the spot where Harvey
and I said our vows, and I relived for Rosalie the happenings and
scenes of
that day. Harvey
and I stood under an
archway of cedar and evergreens sprinkled with fall flowers from Portsmouth
yards. My cousin,
Abner Dixon, and other local
youths, brought the boughs of greenery and many of the flowers such as
goldenrod and home-grown chrysanthemums, in red, lavender and gold,
from Cedar
Island,
by boat.
"'I was a girl again, going through
the ceremony and seeing and feeling the presence of all those loved
ones and
friends who crowded in the church.
Memories of our summertime, protracted
meetings also came flooding
in. Milan’s
father, old Mr. Dave Willis, a
handsome Hatteras import, would pat his foot, sway to the tempo and
lead the whole
congregation, including the organist, with his rich baritone in
“There’s a
Great Day Coming By and By”.
His
infectious fervor had a punch all his own, as he lead “Let
the Lower Lights be
Burning” and wound up the last stanza: “Trim your
feeble lamp, my brother, Some
poor sailor tempest tossed, Trying now to make the harbor, In the
darkness may
be lost”. Mr.
Dave had lived, man and
boy, within the beam of the great Hatteras lighthouse.
He knew the meaning of the word,
“send a
gleam across the wave, some poor fainting, struggling seaman you may
rescue,
you may save”. Mr.
Dave was still an
outsider. Portsmouth
people were clannish and
suspicious of any outsider, especially when it came to marrying one of
their
own. Hence, the
regrettable custom of intermarrying
which was the code of the day. They
were
absolutely adamant in their opinion that no Hatterasman could be any
good. None of them
could have told you when this
resentment began, but it is likely that it took hold when Fort
Hatteras
fell to the conquering Union soldiers.
In the confusion that followed, the residents
of Hatteras, feeling the
sting of defeat and futility of suffering further indignities and
losses,
decided to leave the Confederacy of the Southern States and return to
the
federal group. Such
a decision at the
very time that those same Union soldiers moved on, forty miles south,
to occupy Portsmouth,
would have been difficult for the Confederacy-loving Portsmouthers to
forgive. Mr. Dave
might have been
teaching his adopted neighbors some kind of lesson when he made a
joyful noise
unto the Lord, a loud noise that reached rafter-bursting crescendo.
"'The church was lavishly decorated
for our wedding. The
greenery was
festooned along the walls and, over the windows, was caught up by white
ribbon
bows. Beyond the
archway, white candles
glowed like fireflies on the altar and among the vases of flowers on
the organ,
thus adding to the illumination from the kerosene wall lamps. I recall my wedding gown,
which was white
net, over a satin slip. It
was
floor-length, with three quarter length sleeves.
A Portsmouth
seamstress made it. My
illusion veil
fell into a train. I
carried a nosegay
of white (permanent) lilies of the valley, on white fluted net. My apparel was all new,
except for an old,
heart-shaped locket, an heirloom.
I do
not remember anything borrowed or blue.
Portsmouth
Methodist Church:
(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"'The three bridesmaids were
cousins Carrie Goodwin of Cedar
Island,
Ethel Willis and Olive Babbit of Davis. Groomsmen were cousins
Abner Dixon and Joe
Roberts of Portsmouth
and Irwin Davis of Davis. None of the attendants are
living to enjoy
the memories with me.
"'Henry Pigott’s uncle, Joe Abbot,
son of “Aunt Rose” Pigott, Portsmouth’s
midwife, prepared the wedding feast at our home.
He was a regular chef at the Jordan L. Mott
gun
club, nine miles south of Portsmouth,
and
pleased the appetites of such celebrities as Franklin D. Roosevelt,
Assistant
Secretary of the Navy, under North Carolina’s
Josephus Daniels, Secretary of the
Navy. Joe Abbot was
a member of the Methodist
church and its only strict tither.
His
mother, Rose Pigott, had been the young daughter of a slave belonging
to Earls
Ireland, one of Portsmouth’s
wealthy ship owners, and sea-roving captains.
After the evacuation of the residents and the
occupation by the Union
soldiers in August, 1861, Rose, alone of all her race, remained on the
island. By her
midwifery, fishing with a
net, oystering, barbering and digging ditches, she raised a large
family of
highly respected daughters and sons, such as Joe Abbot.
"'My mother’s sister, Mrs. Vera
Gilgo Willis, (wife of Milan
and mother of Leida Mae) now deceased these many years, played
Loenghren’s Wedding
March, by Wagner, then played softly all during the ceremony. Thinking of Aunt Vera,
brought to mind a rapid
succession of Christmas programs which she directed.
She often had me recite a poem or play some
of the carols. When
she was absent from
services, I substituted for her at the organ.
I remembered three teachers, Mrs. Medora Ireland,
Martha Daniels and Lucy
Linton who taught in the mid-way schoolhouse and visited my home to
teach me
the organ.
Interior
of the Portsmouth Methodist Church:
(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"'Boatloads of friends came from
Ocracoke and Cedar Island for
our
wedding. Harvey’s
family and friends came from Davis. Three of the
“gas” boats anchored out in the
slough abreast our home in the cove.
There were no newspaper write-ups and no
cameras to catch the menagerie
that waded ashore that day. Wedding
guests, the bridegroom, his parents, his pastor and all attendants
transferred
to waiting skiffs which were skulled along by oar into shallow water. Then everybody got
barefoot and holding their
suitcases high above the water, slogged laboriously toward dry land. The suitcases held new
clothes to be worn in
the wedding. We saw
nothing humorous
about this. It was
our way of
living. Though
things were of a pastoral
simplicity, every facet of life meant a lot to us.
Our wedding day was a delightful occasion,
the crowning event of a happy childhood for me, and as we soon moved to
the
city, the termination of an Arcadian existence.
"'They were precious, carefree days
on Portsmouth
and our country then seemed free of everything evil or dazzling. We knew nothing of
automobiles, cigarettes,
drugs or liquor. Boys
and girls gathered
night after night at our home to sing, “The Maple on the
Hill”, “Red River Valley”,
and “Red Wing”, as I played our
old fashioned reed organ, with its mirrored cabinet.
The stool was cushioned in red plush.
"'My mother would give us sugar and
vinegar to boil and we had candy pullings.
The broken pieces of hard, off-white candy
were laid upon a large
greased platter. At
other times, we
popped corn in the kitchen range.
Superstitions, fortune-telling and savory good
luck charms were regarded
with seriousness. On
New Year’s Eve, we
cooked collards, black-eyed peas and hog jowls and ate promptly at the
stroke
of midnight. Each
unmarried girl stirred
the peas with a long, wooden ladle and each serving had to be served
directly
form the pot. A
girl who hoped for a
husband also wore red garters on New Year’s Day.
"'Some evenings we had a square
dance in somebody’s big kitchen or a vacant house to which we
repaired with a
kerosene filled hurricane lantern.
If
the inlet was too rough for Wid Williams to get across from Ocracoke
and play
the fiddle for our shindig, some local youth would play a small mouth
harp or
an accordion. They
were glorious
times. If we were
missing any of the
world’s stores, we were too innocent to know it.
"'While reminiscing, we lingered at
the altar and about the organ, where we added some coins to the
collection
plate that rests just left of the music rack.
There is never a day without hunters,
fishermen, tourists or returning
Portsmouthers wandering into the little church.
They usually leave a contribution and Henry
uses it to buy paint and
repairs for the building. The
lady
residents keep the floor swept and the furniture dusted.
"'How deeply etched on my heart
were those old sermons, chosen for their appropriateness. We knew the Promised Land
that flowed with
milk and honey. In
good weather we lived
in the Promised Land, for Portsmouth
was a virtual paradise. Over
and over we
listened to such texts as Mark 1:17.
The Sea of
Galilee was real to us and we felt a
genuine kinship for the two brothers, Simon and Andrew, who, while
casting a
net, heard the Master say, “Come ye after me and I will make
you fishers of
men”. We
were assured that there had
been plenty of wise men, but Jesus passed them by and chose from simple
walks
of life, men whose minds, not being already filled, were open to learn.
"'I had been prone to digress from
the topic of the wedding to many others, and as we left the church
reluctantly,
it seemed natural to point out the site of the little wooden bench on
the lawn
of the adjoining lot, where Mr. Dave Salter sat and courted Miss
Jonesie
Roberts for fifty years. They
both died
single, he having refused to live “Down-the-Banks”,
and she having refused to
live “Up-the-Banks”.
"'During the bombardment of Fort
Hatteras
on August 27, 1861, most Portsmouthers, together with their one hundred
sixteen
slaves, were escaping Cedar
Island
or Belhaven, and on that day Jonesie Roberts
was allegedly born on a featherbed in the bottom of a sailing yawl just
off Cedar
Island.
"'One fat woman, Miss Rossie
Gaskins, tried to go, but panic stricken, she forgot to use the back
door which
had been enlarged just for her, and got stuck in the front door. The Union soldiers found
her, released her
and set up housekeeping, treating her meantime with great kindness.
Legend has
it that Miss Rossie’s stocking would hold a peck of corn.
"'The tones of the old church bell
and the organ continued to haunt me as we visited the nearby cemetery
to view
the tombs of long gone relatives.
I
could still remember the shallow graves and the high water table, and
especially the burial of an old lady when I was five years old. My father, holding me in
his arms, had to
take me away from the service as the casket was being lowered, because
I began
crying, “Don’t put her in the water!”
A
Portsmouth Island Gravestone:
(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"'Proceeding further on our tour,
we paused to observe abandoned houses that were once alive with
activity, and
finally reached the discontinued Coast Guard Station, originally called
the
Life Saving Station. The
building,
crowned by a multi-windowed cupola, was erected in 1894, the year I was
born. It had always
been a symbol of
security and advancement to me, just as the tiny Methodist church with
its
spire, had been. Incidentally,
these two
landmarks have always appeared on geodetic survey maps of the North
Carolina Coast. In 1915, Josephus Daniels
and William McAdoo
were instrumental in having the U.S. Revenue Service and Life Saving
Service
combined under the U.S. Treasury Department, and named the U.S. Coast
Guard.
Portsmouth
Island Life Saving Station:

(Click
on photo to view a larger image.)
"'I could never forget the two
huge, gray station horses, Dewey and Nancy Hanks.
They were bought in 1896, from McCleary
McClellan Livestock Company in Norfolk, Virginia,
for one hundred dollars
each, and were used for pulling the surf boat and other rescue
equipment to the
surfside. How
different they were from
the many wiry banker ponies that ran wild on our banks.
"'Here on the Coast Guard lawn,
herded and guarded within the white paling fence, four hundred Cape
Verde
Islanders, speaking only Portuguese, remained from May 8, until May 11,
1903. They had
mutinied and beached
their barkentine, the Vera Cruz, because her Captain had not made good
his word
to smuggle the poverty stricken immigrants illegally into the United States. Thirty-two trips were made
to bring them
ashore in such boats as local people could provide.
It took four and a half barrels of flour to
give them one meal. The
government
furnished the flour and housewives baked the bread.
I was nine years old and remember that my
mother baked in large pans enough biscuits to fill a flour barrel. Some of the foreigners ran
away from the
station crew and crawled through the marshes to beg for food at the
homes. We fed them
when they came. Their
women and children strung coffee beans
to while away the time. As
their fears
and discomforts increased, so did their wailing and weeping and strange
jabbering. Their
Captain stowed away in
a whale oil barrel on a ship, and escaped the law.
The Revenue cutter, Bautwell, took the crew
and passengers away.
"'There was not always plenty of
cash to spend, but our men folk could go over to Hyde
County
and barter a fifty pound bucket of salt mullets for a fifty pound
bucket of
ears of corn, or for skeet apples.
Food
was always in abundance for those smart enough to raise a vegetable
garden, to
fish a net or to own herds of cattle and sheep.
Pamlico Sound
was at our door and the
wide marshes with plenty of tender, green growth, snuggled at the base
of tall
rushes, furnished free range for livestock.
We had a garden full of chickens and some
domesticated Canadian geese
for decoys. Hunting
wild fowl was a
rewarding pastime, furnishing food, feathers, goose-quill pens and even
the
goose wings for sweeping up the brick hearth.
"'Usually two of our cows would
come up from the range at night, to nourish their penned-up calves and
supply
us with milk, cream and butter. For
them
we drew brackish water from a shallow well.
We drank rain water from our large juniper
cistern. There was
only one deep well of good, fresh
drinking water on the island. It
was on
land Up-the-Banks that had belonged to the family of Captain John
Wallace. He was
Governor of Shell Castle in the late
1700’s. He
was also a member of the
Constitutional Convention that met in Fayetteville,
N.C.
and voted to ratify the Constitution of
the United
States
on November 21, 1789.
"'Portsmouth
people, in order to survive, had
to be unafraid, in times of great peril and disaster.
They lived on the brink of danger; danger
from livestock rustlers who came ashore armed, and necessitated the
appointment
of a beach patrol to keep watch. Such
wealth of cattle and sheep, on a somewhat unprotected range so close to
busy
shipping lanes, was a target coveted by our enemies in every war our
country
has fought. There
was the ever present
dread of thirst, when all the Island cisterns ran dry or had salt water
during
high tide, and the dread of epidemic while living so far from medical
aid. The nearest
doctor was forty miles away.
"'I had never been attended by a
physician until my oldest child was born.
My Grandmother Roberts, who grew up on Cedar
Island,
came to live with us and grew an herb garden.
Like most of Portsmouth,
it was a spot of enchantment. Her
plants
were for flavor, fragrance and physic: hot mint tea for colds,
sassafras tea
and yaupon tea to purify the blood in Spring, steeped feverfew [a
medicinal herb] for reducing
fever, larkspur for stings and bites, and a great store of additional
remedies
such as rinsing out nasal passages with sea water, sulfur and molasses
for the
blood, mustard plasters for chest cold, honey for a cough, burnt alum
and
boiled red oak bark for sore throat, turpentine and salt, fat pork
applied to
cuts, soap and sugar applied to boils, and waxed green myrtle bushes to
drive
away fleas and insects.
"'On
our return trip by boat to
Ben’s Lodge, a fishing crew hailed us and gave us a large
flounder for
supper. We used my
mother’s recipe
for baking it:
"'One
whole large flounder. Score each side of fish with
sharp
knife. Leave 1
½ inches between
scores. Place in
shallow baking pan with dark side of fish up.
Place one
sliced onion and one cut up white potato around sides
of fish. Add water
one inch deep in
pan. Dice one
forth pound of salt pork and lay pieces over the indentations
on top of fish. Bake
in oven of an iron,wood-burning
range for thirty minutes. Mix
two tablespoons
of flour in one cup of water. Pour over potatoes
and onions to thicken gravy. Cook
for 10 minutes. Serve with baked cornbread.
"'One
author had said that Portsmouth died
of her
own rapacity, allowing livestock to nibble every leaf and stubble of
the
sand-binding vegetation, thereby causing the large sand dunes to fly
away with
the wind and fill up her harbor. Perhaps
this is true.
"'I carry so may memories of Portsmouth
in my heart, it
would be impossible for me to tell “in mournful
tradition” all I feel about the
once thriving seaport with its harbor, warehouses, academy, and
shipyards, all
of which had declined and left only a remote, close-knit village in my
day. Gradually,
with no children, no pastor, no
cats, no dogs, no ponies or cattle, no noise except birds, sea and
wind, it
wasted away and became an old man dreaming in the sun, “sans
teeth, sans eyes,
sans taste, sans everything'”.
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